1200 OCEAN GRILL,

If you knew nothing else about 1200 Ocean Grill in Narragansett, there are a couple of indications that it's worth a visit. First, it's packed in the summers -- no biggie as sunburned and hungry throngs swarm off the beaches, but an accomplishment when you consider that the formidable Spain is practically next door. The second hint is more subtle: 1200 charges more than usual for their Thursday twofer specials. Dinner-for-two nights used to be an East Bay promotional technique, but are now common throughout the state. Restaurants figure to break even or maybe lose a little on two entrées and a bottle of wine, hoping that couples will spring for an appetizer and desserts. The diners, if they're won over, might-come back some time for the regular prices. Winning us over is the harder part, though. Twofers too often involve abbreviated lunchtime portions, and you can bet that the wine thrown in for a $19.95 dinner for two should have been thrown out.

Full review.